Vintage Book Picture Frames

This particular project is one of my absolute FAVES!!! I went to an arts and crafts show almost a year and a half ago and I saw one of these and had to have it. I couldn't quite figure out how they had managed to turn this book into a frame, but I was going to figure it out. I didn't hop on google, I committed to figuring it out myself. So, after a little trial and error and a few hits and misses, it came out a little better than I even anticipated. And it was easy peasy- 5 steps to be exact!

Materials:

-A vintage or nostalgic hard back book

-Scissors

-Hair Dryer

-Ruler

-Hot glue gun

-Exacto Knife

-One sheet of card stock

-A tube of E6000 glue adhesive 

-Aleene's or Elmer's spray adhesive

-Pen or pencil

-A paper crafting flower or embellishment

-Modge Podge

-A foam brush

-Rubber bands

-A large binder clip or two
-A sheet of card stock or hearty paper

While this project requires quite a few materials, let me reassure you that it is going to be worth it! 

Before we can get started, you must first find yourself a vintage or antique hard back book. You may have some of your own lying around, or you may have to do as I did and go to your local resale, thrift, or book store that resells used books. I chose to go to Half Price Books and they actually have a nostalgic book section. Some of them were super pricey, while others, like mine, were very reasonable and in good condition. I chose a medium size book with a bright teal cover and solid pages. It is imperative that your cover is durable and in good condition, as you will need it to be strong enough to cut on. Also, make sure that the pages are sturdy, and not falling apart. You will be cutting the pages as well, and they must be strong enough to endure the cutting process and remain in tact for the most part. 

Step 1: Decide what size picture that you are creating this frame for. Using your card stock, a pen or pencil, and a ruler, measure and create a pattern the size of your photo. The most common sizes are 4X6 and 5X7. I always print photos from my phone or camera in the 4X6 size, so that's what I selected. Once you have finished creating and have cut out your pattern, flip open the front cover of your book and trace the pattern onto the back of the cover. (You can also just trace it on the front of the cover, but it is just a bit more risky in that you can make a flaw during cutting that could be hard to patch up. Whereas on the back of the cover, you have more room for error.)

AN EXTRA STEP IF THE SPINE OF YOUR BOOK IS A LITTLE WOBBLY

(In a well ventilated area (-AKA- outdoors) and wearing a durable pair of rubber gloves, use the E6000 tube of glue to seal the binding if it happens to be detached in any way at all. Just squeeze it into the peek a boo holes if they exist on the spine, and then press it down to make sure that the glues adheres. Then, use a hair dryer on high to help better seal and dry it.)

Step 2: Carefully use your exact knife to cut the pattern out that you traced onto the cover earlier. DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS STEP! It is so important that you focus on safety and precision here. Once you have successfully severed the cover completely, remove the portion of the cover that you cut out. Then, take 25-30 pages behind that cover, and use a binder clip to hold them together; leaving approximately 80% of the remaining pages. Then, with the 80% portion of the pages, using your adhesive glue spray, glue the back page to the back cover, and continue, 2-4 pages at a time, spraying and gluing them together. Continue this process until you have glued all of the pages together. Secure a rubber band or binder clips on them to hold them in place as they dry. Use your hair dryer on high to seal and dry. Next, do the same thing with the remaining 20% of the pages in the binder clip. But, keep both sections of pages separate for now (We will put them all together later).

Step 3: At this point, 20% of your book is glued together, and the other 80% is glued together. Keep them separated still and put an old magazine or thin book in between them for the rest of this step. With the 20% portion of the pages that are adhered to the front cover, use your Exacto knife to sever the pages also in the shape and pattern that you have cut out in the cover. As I stated earlier during a cutting portion of the project, DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS STEP! It is imperative that you slowly cut through the pages, as you do not want to damage them or cause them to look rough or raggedy. Once you  have cut the pages, and both the cover and the 20% of the pages are hollow, use a hair dryer to blow out the dust that may have come from cutting the pages. Use your Exacto knife to trim rough edges and smoothen the edges of the pages and cover. Now, where the front 20% of the book and the back 80% are divided, use your E6000 and a foam brush and secure those two portions together. I highly advise E6000 for this as you do not want your book separating. And if you know anything about E6000, anything put together by it, no man can separate ha! Rubber band the book good to hold it in place and to seal it. I let mine then sit for almost one hour to dry really, really good. 

Step 4: Leave the rubber bands in place, and along the bottom edges of the pages and the side edges (NOT ALONG THE TOP OF THE BOOK JUST YET), paint on a coat or two of original Modge Podge. Let it dry for 20-30 minutes, and then repeat this step once more. 

Now, your pages at the top of your book have NOT been painted with Modge Podge just yet, and this is on purpose. Remove your rubber bands from around the book. Grab your pattern that you created earlier and manipulate it in through the top where the pages have not been Modge Podged until it comfortably slides all the way through the front and is exposed in the photo slot on the cover. If you have trouble sliding it through, I recommend using your Exacto knife along the edges of the top to slightly enlarge the slot to slide the photo through and to make an easy entrance and exit for your photos in and out of the frame. Once it slides in and out comfortably, leave your pattern in there and leave a little of it peaking through the slot at the top. Take your Modge Podge and foam brush that you used earlier and paint the edges of those pages now also (paint on a coat or two of original Modge Podge, let it dry for 20-30 minutes, and then repeat this step once more). Wrap rubber bands around your book, and leave your book for 2-3 hours to completely dry.

Step 5: Remove the pattern from the photo slot (If done correctly, this should slide out very easy). Use your Exacto knife to fine tune and smooth out things if needed on the cover or on the severed page edges. If and when all is smooth enough, Use your hot glue gun to adhere your paper craft flower or embellishment onto the spot of your choice on the cover. Then, grab that favorite photo of yours and slide it on in through the top. Exhale, smile, and pat yourself on the back, girlfriend!

You did it again in 5 easy steps!

Until next time,

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Ahava Thrift Store Month: How-To Redesign Thrift Store Lamps

February is thrift month for Ahava Designs TX and every single one of this month's posts will be centered around thrift store items revamped! As I have said before, Ahava Designs TX thrives in the redesign and restoration of vintage and antique lighting and home furnishings, so naturally I spend much time in resale and thrift stores; and I love it! Nothing that I sell, with the exception of the handmade lamp shades, is brand new. Everything has been thrifted and was purchased as an antique and then restored and redesigned- EVERYTHING!! And one of my favorite thrift store items to hunt are lamps. They are usually in resale shops in masses, overlooked and untouched. But let me tell you, there are so many lamps that are absolute treasure finds that with a little TLC, can be reinvented to jazz up any room's lighting! Here's How!

QUICK DISCLAIMER AND IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW:

I never pay more than $10 for a thrift store or resale lamp, period. In addition to that, I always judge the potential of the lamp, focusing on such things as these:

• Can the base be redesigned or repainted and it look good? What does the original material that it is made of look like? cracks or chips? ceramic or wood?
• What do the electrical gadgets look like? Are they extremely aged and damaged? Is the cord in tact? I NEVER NEVER NEVER purchase lamps where the electrical business looks out of business. If the cord has any cuts or stray wires, leave it. Your safety is #1.
• Has it been redesigned or repainted before? If I can tell that a lamp has been redesigned or repainted already, I leave it. I want it in its original state, as sometimes when something is redesigned or repainted already, you can over do it and this could cause it to look tacky, the new design not to look like you planned, or safety risks as far as the electrical component is concerned if its coated for days in paint.

Ok, let's dive in!

Step 1:
The first step is simply thrifting and finding the perfect lamp for you. Don't worry if the shade looks shady! You are focused more on the base, as a shade can be tossed or replaced easily. Assess it once again for durability, electrical safety, and redesign potential. Remove the lamp shade if there is one, as well as any harps and finials that may have attached the shade to the actual lamp base.

Step 2:
Using painters tape, tape over the cords, making sure that you cover every inch. I like to place a quart size ziplock over my cord, and then tape it closed with the painters tape. Also, cover the fitter, the knob that turns it one, and the spot that holds the bulb tightly and completely with the painters tape. Please make sure that this is covered in its entirety, as if paint gets in these areas, it is not recommended for use. Paint is flammable.

Step 3: 
Once you have covered those areas sufficiently with your painter's tape and nothing but the base is exposed, place it on a plastic tarp or canvas of some sort on top of a hard surface and in a well ventilated area (outdoors). Then, spray your base with a good primer. After the primer dries, choose the spray paint color that you wish to makeover your base with and cover it thoroughly, following the directions on the can. Let it dry outdoors, and then take a look over it to make sure that you have not missed any spots, touch it up if need be, and if not finish the paint process by spraying your base with a top coat or clear sealant.

Step 4:
After several hours and when the paint is completely dry, remove the painters tape carefully from the electrical components and the cord. Double check the felt on the bottom and make sure that it is in tact also. If it is, great! If not, simply purchase an adhesive sheet of felt from your local craft store, sit your base on it, trace the bottom, and cut and adhere the new felt. 

Step 5:
Depending upon what the shade looked like, decide whether or not you will salvage it or trash it. If there are cuts in the shade, whether on the outside or in the enterior, pitch it; as when the light is turned on, any flaws or imperfections will show through. If the print is ugly, no worries. You can cover them with fabric or search for a cool DIY idea similar to some of the ones that we featured late last year to make them over (http://ahavadesignstxdiy.blogspot.com/2013/11/a-garage-sale-100-lamp-shade-turned.html.) Or, you can simply splurge and buy a new one. Because you will have saved so much on the base of the lamp, you have room to splurge when it comes to the shade. But, whatever shade you choose, choose something fun, unique, and that fits the style and flavor that you are looking for.

And voila! You will have done it again, you DIY diva you- DIY in 5 easy steps! 

Until next time,